At the same time, more and more Asian designers have appeared on the shortlists of major international design awards, such as LVMH Young Designers and CFDA Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards.
Social media provides a variety of development channels for brands, which allows some niche designer brands to grow rapidly.
In this issue, VOGUE introduces to you the emerging Asian powers that cannot be missed in the current fashion circle.
Peter Do, a designer who is loved by young consumers in the social age, his namesake brand is one of the fastest-growing designer brands in the past two years.
Peter Do, who was born in Vietnam and immigrated to the United States at the age of 14, studied at the New York Fashion Institute and won the LVMH Graduate Award after graduation. He successively worked in Celine and Derek Lam, and launched Peter Do, the brand of the same name in 2018.
Peter Do is good at structuring diverse pop culture, developing a futuristic minimalist style in silhouette and tailoring.
“I learned everything from Phoebe. Clothes are clothes and they have to be worn.”
His designs are simple and fluid, with sophisticated fabrics and architectural and industrial elements In the design, tailoring is used to achieve a more unique and recognizable silhouette. This is the possibility of Peter Do thinking about contemporary social clothing in different types of work and uniforms.
At the same time, Peter Do also took advantage of social media to continue to carry forward the design concept of simplicity, neutrality, and practicality. His unique silhouette language also attracted more attention to his works. When the brand was established for less than a year, you can frequently see this emerging brand in different celebrity styles and magazines.
However, in the era of keen to use the star effect of designers, he did the opposite and did not show his true colors. Even though he has been shortlisted for awards such as CFDA and LVMH Young Fashion Designers, he is still the “mysterious designer” on the poster who never shows his face.
Tomo Koizumi, also a finalist for the 2020 LVMH Young Fashion Designer Award, was unanimously expected to win the championship Popular.
Although the eponymous brand Tomo Koizumi was established as early as 2011, until 2019, it was still only a well-known brand in Japan. At the beginning of 2019, under the recommendation of Bole Katie Grand, Tomo Koizumi brought his works to In New York, these exaggerated silhouettes made him famous.
Inspired by traditional Japanese funeral flowers, Tomo Koizumi, who combines unique Japanese street culture and popular elements, was named “Forbidden Aesthetics”.
These exaggerated silhouettes and bright colors each require at least 50 meters of fabric, and an average skirt takes 72 hours to make. Hundreds of colors, gorgeous and exaggerated, form a strong contrast with the popular minimalist aesthetics.
Tomo Koizumi does not take practical wear as the main purpose, in this “anti-fashion” gradually declining At that time, his highly personal and expressionistic works brought back fresher genes to the current fashion industry.
Yueqi Qi, who graduated from Central Saint Martins, founded the brand of the same name in 2019 Yueqi Qi. Inspired by traditional Chinese cultural images, she combined glass bead weaving techniques with different materials, explored new aspects of traditional artistic expression, and created a design style with great visual effects.
Before creating your own brand , Yueqi Qi worked as an embroidery designer at CHANEL, and worked as an embroidery designer for Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy and other brands design textiles.
The precious experience made her think more deeply about the possibility of glass bead weaving. After she founded the brand of the same name, she continued to explore this craft as the brand DNA, drawing aesthetics from the traditional craft of the past Concept, but also to explore more spiritual core that this technology can carry in the future.
For Yueqi Qi, everyone’s thoughts and understanding of things are unique. Fashion is a way of telling stories. Through her own personal experience, she forms her own design language, and then uses it for creative expression. In each of Yueqi Qi’s new series, we can see the sense of layering that her experience and thinking give to the work.
Terrence Zhou was born and raised in Wuhan. Before he chose to become a designer, he mainly studied mathematics and engineering. Out of his passion for art and technology, he later transferred to Parsons School of Fashion Design in the United States. study further.
Terrence Zhou often draws creative inspiration from daily life, and then transforms these bits and pieces into interesting designs that have never been seen before, and his interdisciplinary experience makes his works present art and technology Fusion styles.
He does not regard fashion as a very serious thing, does not like to follow the rules, does not design according to the season, but follows his intuition, looking for the connection between design and people.
Terrence Zhou expresses himself through exaggerated silhouettes, and communicates with the audience through his works, allowing the audience to feel the weight of the design and the personality and stories behind the creation.
Continuing to explore and build connections in a life redefined by social media, Terrence Zhou told us that this is not just a brand name.
Lisa Jiang’s interest in fashion design stems from watercolor and illustrationShe wanted to translate these 2D concepts into body-oriented clothing design.
Lisa Jiang, currently working as a multidisciplinary designer in Toronto, is interested in developing new possibilities for movement and deformation, as well as their application in different fabrics and silhouettes. She explores the variety of fabrics in her daily design, allowing the physical properties of fabrics to intuitively affect the design outline.
“Right now I’m working on second-generation kinematics. I’m trying to achieve more precise control over motion. By improving the durability of the drive components and the efficiency of the actuators, the kinematics suit will last longer than the A five-minute fashion show.”
Through the observation of liquid, she experimented with hydrodynamic painting techniques, and presented this effect in her design, creating clothing that is constantly moving, like smoke Water changes all the time.
Founded by Steven Oo and XUAN DIANJUN in 2020, Nume is a designer brand conceived from their knitting research and development studio. Although Nume is a very young new brand, before that, they had accumulated seven years in knitting design art exhibition and knitting design research and development.
They draw aesthetic concepts from traditional handicrafts, combine the latest technology and innovative research and development of fabrics, and endow pure knitting with infinite possibilities. Steven Oo regards knitting as an interactive game of stitches and yarns. This game of constant changes leads Nume to explore, try and innovate.
With the continuous improvement of domestic fashion acceptance and demand, Steven Oo hopes to show more interesting weaving methods through Nume, and the design of each season is a new beginning.
The unique multicultural growth environment and the identity of a multilingual user have become the source of inspiration for Yiya Chen. Her growing experience and the unique culture of the two places have greatly nourished her passion for art and fashion design.
Studying at Parsons College and Central Saint Martins also further enriched her cultural experience, The Row and Thom The working experience of Browne and other famous fashion companies has also enabled her to grow rapidly.
The collision of the expression of traditional oriental philosophy and the concept of contemporary art also made her pay more attention to the transformation of women’s social identity in a multicultural background. In the process of combining fashion, film and performance art, Yiya Chen injects a kind of female power into the work, and at the same time, she also poetically thinks about the image of women in society and history through design.
From Tsinghua After graduating from the Fashion Design Academy of Fine Arts, Rui Zhou went to Parsons College for further study. In 2018, her graduation work was released at New York Fashion Week, which received unanimous praise. In the same year, she established her own brand RUI. She is also the first young designer shortlisted for the LVMH Prize The Chinese designer in the final of the Master Award.
Rui Zhou’s work explores the connection between clothing and the body, and regards the close-fitting clothing as the second skin of the body. The female power felt from the women at home makes her Her design focuses on imperfection and fragility, which make her knitted bodysuits more storytelling.
The beauty of the natural curves of the human body is revealed in the wrapping of these stretchy knitted fabrics, revealing While expressing a very soft and gentle emotion, it also contains a subtle sense of mystery, achieving a delicate balance between practicality and artistry.
She sees the human body as a frame, and tights are a wonderful medium to explore this frame. Fashion shows the connection and space between people, and has a relationship with architecture and installation art The same is true.
The designer of VNCIRCLE, Jiayu Lin, pursues the balance of playfulness, innocence, elegance and sexiness in her designs. She presents modern lifestyles and women’s delicacy with profile structures, and expresses her ideas and ideas through a kind of attractive Presented in an elegant form.
She is obsessed with discovering and researching unconventional materials to make them more comfortable and fit.
She hopes to break the rigid framework of clothing through design, integrate unconventional materials into daily wear, and give birth to new ideas from novelty.
Ava Zhou has always known that she wants to engage in a career related to art and design, and clothing is one of the best ways to express many imaginations and ideas. It is precisely because of such rich imagination and new ideas that continue to emerge, his own experience, other art forms, clothing of various ages, everything may attract him and become his creative inspiration.
He regards clothing as a more complete experience in addition to functionality, so he also pays more attention to details-the sensory experience brought about by the interaction between fabric and body, or the expression expressed in silhouette and design. Deep feeling and awareness.
“I think fashion is a kind of silent self-introduction. Every piece of my work becomes a part of me in the process of formation.”
Ava ZHou thinks about the relationship between people and clothing through design, and encourages everyone to express their inner feelings in this “most intimate” way.
Yitao Li, who came to the United States to study in junior high school, found that there are many choices in life, so she embarked on the path of a designer.
As a young person born in the era of popular digital media, she also thinks in this environment. Combining media, artwork and personal perspective, design experimentation is furthered in the form of practical fabric transformations and unexpected fabrics and combinations.
“I am interested in software such as Photoshop and other image editing applications, through which you can easily change the look of anything and create a kind of illusion art.”
Fashion is to her It is like everyone’s own visual carrier, a canvas to show their own heart.
At the same time, she also hopes to gradually integrate digital experience into fashion and introduce more sensory stimulation to wearing.
In 2012, Victor Wang, who obtained a degree in mathematics from Imperial College London, thought that the financial industry was not the future he wanted. Under the influence of many friends who studied fashion design around him, he followed his inner choice and went to Antwerp.
Victor Wang regards fashion and design as a language and uses them to tell stories. Inspired by certain fragments of memory or works of art, this will allow his works to derive either everyday or exaggerated shapes, and at the same time he also expresses himself in his own wayShow memories in a form full of tension.
The thirst for innovation makes him constantly show this vigorous vitality in his designs, showing bright colors and exaggerated silhouettes, and combining order and chaos, toughness and softness in a unique way .
Finally, it breaks through the limitations of the original clothing structure and creates visual feasts one after another.
Photographer:
Gordon Von Steiner, Annie Lai, PJ
Zhang Chao, Wang Jiayu Jiayu Wang
Styling Stylist:
Jorden Bickham, Regina Chan
Jin Jiping Charlie Chin, Michelle Zhao
