In the March issue of the British edition of “Vogue” released earlier, Kate Moss wore a Fendi haute couture blockbuster in advance. A hangout for the Bloomsbury Group.
Interestingly, Kim Jones, the artistic director of Fendi’s high-end and women’s clothing series who grew up nearby, often went to Charleston to copy the murals on the wall when he was a child—cloth Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, members of the Loomsbury School, painted everything in this cottage, including the walls, furniture, doors and windows, with beautiful patterns.
Kim Jones said: “This is a very personal memory for me.”
Last night, Kim Jones released his first haute couture series after he joined Fendi. This is also his first women’s collection since his design career of more than ten years.
Kim Jones is very good at drawing creative inspiration from different time and space, regional culture and art genre.
In addition to Vanessa Bell, her sister Bloomsbury female writer Virginia Woolf’s book “Orlando” based on her lover Vita Sackville-West also provides Fendi advanced customization series inspired.
In the novel “Orlando”, time and space are reversed, and delicate femininity and handsome masculinity become a fluid and interchangeable choice. This kind of free creativity also It is perfectly integrated into the design of Kim Jones.
The most intuitive thing is that the design of these two men’s suits combined with women’s dresses is performed by two models of different genders, endowed with strong artistic tension.
It is not difficult to find that Kim Jones, as a top designer, is able to easily cut men’s and women’s silhouettes.
Show installation It also presents the tone of “unlimited”.
The location of Palais Brognatt in Paris, a neoclassical style building built during the Napoleon period, was built as a magnificent glass ” Labyrinth” is an independent space with the brand’s classic double F logo, some of which are planted with flowers, some with bookshelves or tables and chairs, and covered with marble floors. From the contemporary perspective of Kim Jones, cultures from different time and space The fragments were all collected into these transparent rooms.
Live, excerpts from Virginia Woolf and Vita Sackville-West’s courtship letters over the decades, read by Fendi’s best friends and family members, accompanied by the composer Excerpts from Max Richter’s 2015 performance of the ballet “Woolf Works” by the Royal Opera House, which is extremely romantic.
At the same time, in this high-definition series with only 19 sets of Look
The three legendary supermodels Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and Christy Turlington achieved a long-lost reunion on the runway.
Demi Moore is wearing a delicate dress Silk suit opening.
The organza dress is covered with countless gorgeous hand-beaded beads. Kate Moss’ daughter Lila Moss walks slowly, like a goddess.
Bella Hadid’s light and ethereal dress is reminiscent of the vivid lines of Bernini’s sculptures in the Borghese Museum (Borghese).
In Kim Jones’ view, Fendi has always interpreted top craftsmanship.
Such extreme craftsmanship and ingenuity are reflected in every detail of the haute couture series.
The murals created by Vanessa Bell have become the lace embroidery on the dress through tens of hundreds of hours of sewing by craftsmen.
The rosettes on the swirling fabric are actually cut and woven from soft slate gray fur.
This cinnamon-colored cocoon-shaped robe is also reworked. The hollow design at the collar and the three-dimensional rosette are all hand-stitched by Fendi The fourth generation Leonetta Luciano Fendi performed it myself.
Hand-printed book by Virgini Woolf and Leonard Woolf for Hogarth Press, bound in marble.
And these wonderful marble patterns have also become an important element of this show, appearing on various gorgeous materials.
It is worth mentioning that jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez, as the jewelry creative director, created eye-catching jewelry for this haute couture series, such as huge branches Chandelier earrings, and gorgeous barrettes. Made of Murano drop-shaped glass strands and pearls, it is gorgeous and dreamy.
Delfina Delettrez herself also appeared on the show.
The literary conception of “Orlando” is interspersed throughout the whole Haute Couture series, sometimes appearing as a fashionable book-shaped handbag with metal binding, and sometimes embellishing the mother-of-pearl treasure box with the text in the book.
The velvet ribbon on the vintage handbag is exquisitely reinterpreted, embellished with advanced craftsmanship of beading and embroidery.
The “Karligraphy” logo designed by Karl Lagerfeld in 1981 also appeared in the show, which is also the pattern on Karl’s last season.
Fendi’s previous Karligraphy handbag
Kim Jones is full of respect for Fendi’s former art director Karl Lagerfeld: “The biggest honor you can get is to be offered the job Karl Lagerfeld did. (The greatest honor , than being able to take over the job from Karl Lagerfeld).”
His tribute to Karl also includes the front half men’s tailored suit skirt and half dress decorated with hundreds of crystal flowers. The prototype of the dress actually came from Karl Lagerfeld’s early design manuscripts.
Looking at Kim Jones’ works, we can always feelto multiple collisions.
Whether it is the collection of Fendi fashion house, Bloomsbury or Borghese Art Museum, these cultural thoughts and artistic treasures have become an endless source of nourishment for him to absorb, and through his design, he has regained a new brilliance.
Kim Jones loved cycling in the Sussex countryside as a child, and never imagined that he would be in the fashion industry. “I always thought that I would work in a bank, get married and have children.”
And his design, Fendi under his control, may be like his life, because it is unpredictable and full of charm.
