“It’s a love letter to dance and I absolutely respect it,” said Erdem Moralıoğlu, 43, whose AW21 collection and accompanying video will be shown during London Fashion Week. While no stranger to ballet, this was the first time the Canadian-born, half-Turkish, half-British designer made the highly technical dance the focus of his latest fashion show.
In 2017, Erdem was commissioned by choreographer Christopher Wheeldon to create costumes for his one-act ballet Corybantic Games. The ballet premiered at the Royal Opera House in 2018 by the Royal Ballet. Fast-forward to 2021, and it should come as no surprise that the designer is returning to the world of ballet with his new collection. This time with Edward Watson, Principal Dancer and Coach of the Royal Ballet of London. “This is where it’s really headed,” Erdem said. “This is not a ‘dance’.”
What about the clothes themselves? They are a juxtaposition of two worlds—a mix of casual and formal attire that captures moments when dancers are partly in costume and rehearsal attire. Think Watteau-back dresses, embellished duchess satin gowns and opera coats, paired with knitted headbands, ribbed leggings and ballet flats. Erdem, who has designed gowns for the likes of Michelle Obama and Kate Middleton, wanted to celebrate the dancer’s career as well as express his fascination with legendary ballerinas Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nureyev.
After spending the whole day watching Erdem’s pre-recorded performance scene (available on February 23 via Erdem’s official website), admiring his talent up close, the Vogue interview The designer wanted to learn more about his undeniable love of dance, why working with Edward Watson was crucial to realizing his dreams, and as his namesake label now offers a wider range of sizes, body inclusivity is on the rise importance in today’s world.
What motivated you to focus on ballet this season?
“In 2017, when I started Corybantic Games, the seeds were It’s been planted and I always knew I’d be doing a series for my time at the Royal Opera House. “
Why are legendary ballet dancers Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nureyev your muse this season?
“I think Fonteyn’s desire and drive are very Funny, her life is fascinating. The moment she became the world’s most famous ballerina, she disappeared, then a meeting with 23-year-old Nureyev at the age of 42 brought her back into the spotlight once again. They both inspire me. ”
Is there any music or sound that inspired this series?
“Sure, I watched Nureyev and Fonteyn rehearse Video, mostly classic ballets, but Swan Lake is the one I hold on to. There are some small concepts about Swan Lake in the series. “
How did your collaboration with Edward Watson come about?
“Many years ago, I The chief dancer of the troupe) met Edward. Edward is the most important male dancer in the country, and the idea of working with dancers made sense, so I asked him to join me as a movement director. He positions everything so sensitively, it’s so cute. In some footage, his feet stick out to the side of his body, sort of like Nureyev’s ghost.
“(The direction of movement) comes from the idea of the dancer walking up and down the stage and getting into position. For a moment, let the paths between the performers cross.”
Do you always have an idea of what the film wants to convey? What does the music sound like?
“We talked a lot about the Hitchcockian feel, so I hope you get the movie moment before something bad happens. It’s not so much action as it is Anticipation. I think if the music is melodious and repetitive, the effect will be even more grotesque, like in a ballet studio with someone sitting on the piano in the corner.”
You invited four ballet dancers take partperformers, two of whom are now retired. What motivated you to do this? Why is it so important to involve them?
“The four ballet dancers (Marguerite Porter, Christina Arestis, Elizabeth McGorian and Zenaida Yanowsky) all have different qualities that fascinate me, and they are all related to Nureyev. I think, because I’m so obsessed with him and it’s fun to meet people who know him.”
Erdem is now stocked in sizes 6 to 22. Why is body inclusivity so important to you and your brand?
“I do a lot of custom work and I can see the need to make things in different shapes and sizes. Designing for different women Clothes are democratic and beautiful, which is why it’s important to show that in the show.”
What do you miss about fashion shows and what do you think about their future? what hope?
“I miss the little murmur of the audience as they enter the scene, and their anticipation that the show is about to begin. The thesis you spent six months writing, whether it’s affected or not Welcome, all will present a different life in front of people. There is something intangible about live performances – I wish we could go back.”
Finally, your performance was inspired by dance— — What made you want to dance?
“Seeing the dancers lose themselves in such a beautiful moment is something completely transcendent and extraordinary. That feeling in the mind is like putting you in another place, it is the most beautiful feeling in the world !”
